新湖畔网 (随信APP) | Kim Jones宣布离开FENDI经历了四年的相对平淡无功无过阶段。

新湖畔网 (随信APP) | Kim Jones宣布离开FENDI经历了四年的相对平淡无功无过阶段。
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10 月 12 日消息,Kim Jones 结束了和 FENDI 的 4 年合作,正式离职。不出意外的话,9 月刚刚举行的 2025 春夏女装秀就是 Kim Jones 在品牌的谢幕。

Kim Jones 在 2020 年 9 月出任 FENDI 女装艺术总监,负责品牌的女士高级定制和成衣系列。他同时还是 DIOR 的男装艺术总监,两家品牌同属 LVMH 集团。这次确认 Kim Jones 离开 FENDI 的公告中也专门强调了他在 DIOR 的工作不受影响。

Kim Jones 的离职有迹可循,过去一年多来一直有相关的消息传出。今年 5 月 FENDI 任命 Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou 出任 CEO 也释放出改变的信号,而到 6 月,品牌又缺席了 2024 秋冬高定周。

刚结束的 2025 春夏时装周期间,各种关于人事变动的消息传得沸沸扬扬,FENDI 也是传言中多位设计师的潜在下家,当中不乏前 Valentino 创意总监 Pierpaolo Piccioli 以及 John Galliano 这些明星。如今随着 FENDI 女装艺术总监的位置空出,相关传言被印证,接下来就看哪位设计师会抢到这个位置了。

其实原本 4 年前在 DIOR 做得风生水起的 Kim Jones 加入 FENDI 是被寄予厚望的,一位设计师同时担任两家顶奢品牌的创意总监这并不常见,Kim Jones 也因此被认为是 Karl Lagerfeld 的接班人。但现在来看,结局显然没有“老佛爷”的圆满。

从个人品牌到登喜路,再到 Louis Vuitton 和 DIOR,Kim Jones 一直都在做男装,在 FENDI 的工作是他首次正式涉足女装。人们一度预测 FENDI 将在 Kim Jones 的带领下进行年轻化转型或者做出更多全新的尝试,但从第一季到最后,Kim Jones 主导下的 FENDI 女装也始终以优雅为主线,甚至是极简成熟的,一些年轻的、潮流化的,甚至激进的变化并没有发生。

Kim Jones 也将自己擅长的合作项目带到了 FENDI,其中最让人印象深刻的是 2022 早秋和 Versace 的联名,两家分属不同集团的主流奢侈品牌进行联名,即便到今天也非常少见(在那之后,也的确几乎没有再看到过类似量级的品牌联手)。

此外在 2023 早春系列,为庆祝 Baguette 手袋诞生 25 周年,FENDI 和同属 LVMH 的蒂芙尼以及 Marc Jacobs 进行了合作,也制造了一波话题。

无论是业内评价还是市场反馈,Kim Jones 在 FENDI 的表现都基本算是无功无过,虽然整体水准在线,但除了几个联名项目,其实并没有哪场秀或者哪件产品引起过非常热烈的讨论。

同时 FENDI 的年销售额虽然突破了 20 亿欧元大关,但却被同集团的 CELINE 赶超,以 FENDI 在集团的地位来说这多少有些尴尬,LVMH 显然对 FENDI 有着更高的期待。

2025 年 FENDI 将迎来品牌创立 100 周年的里程碑(今年 5 月 FENDI 时隔近 10 年重启了香水线,也被作为了品牌百年庆生的项目之一),不出意外新的女装艺术总监也会就位,FENDI 将在庆祝百岁生日的同时开启新的征程。

其实对于 LVMH 来说,未来一年可能会非常热闹。在 FENDI 之前,GIVENCHYCELINE 都已经换好了创意总监。同时有消息称 DIOR 将在明年年初结束和 Maria Grazia Chiuri 的合作,接替她的会是 Jonathan Anderson。

而这样的话,刚刚报出 2023 财年收入增长 30%(8.11 亿欧元)、净利润增长超过 60%(具体是 62.5%,2.1 亿欧元)的华丽数据的 LOEWE 也会需要寻找一位新创意总监。这可能会是一系列的连锁反应。

英文版:

On October 12, Kim Jones officially ended his 4-year collaboration with FENDI. It is likely that the 2025 Spring/Summer women's fashion show held in September was Kim Jones' farewell performance at the brand.

Kim Jones was appointed as FENDI's artistic director for women's clothing in September 2020, responsible for the brand's haute couture and ready-to-wear collections for women. He also serves as the artistic director for men's wear at DIOR, both brands belonging to the LVMH group. The announcement confirming Kim Jones' departure from FENDI specifically emphasized that his work at DIOR will not be affected.

Kim Jones' departure had been rumored for over a year. FENDI appointed Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as CEO in May this year, signaling a change, and by June, the brand was absent from the 2024 Fall/Winter haute couture week.

During the recently concluded 2025 Spring/Summer Fashion Week, there were swirling rumors about personnel changes, with FENDI being speculated as the potential new home for several designers, including former Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and John Galliano among others. Now, with the position of FENDI's artistic director for women's clothing vacant, these rumors seem to be confirmed, and it remains to be seen which designer will snag the position.

In fact, Kim Jones, who had a successful tenure at DIOR four years ago, was seen as a promising figure when he joined FENDI. It is not common for a designer to simultaneously serve as the creative director for two top luxury brands, leading Kim Jones to be considered as the successor to Karl Lagerfeld. However, the outcome now seems far from being "the next Lagerfeld."

From his own brand to Dior Homme, then to Louis Vuitton and DIOR, Kim Jones has always focused on menswear, and his work at FENDI marked his first foray into women's clothing. There were expectations of a rejuvenation or new experiments at FENDI under Kim Jones' leadership, but from the first season to the last, the FENDI women's clothing overseen by Kim Jones predominantly stayed elegant, even leaning towards minimalistic maturity, with no significant changes towards youthfulness, trendiness, or radical shifts.

Kim Jones also brought his collaboration expertise to FENDI, with the most impressive being the 2022 Early Autumn collaboration with Versace, a rare joint project between major luxury brands under different groups that is still rare today (there have been almost no similar collaborations of similar scale since then).

In addition, for the 2023 Early Spring collection, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Baguette handbag, FENDI collaborated with LVMH's Tiffany and Marc Jacobs, creating a wave of buzz.

Overall, Kim Jones' performance at FENDI has been generally lackluster in terms of industry reviews and market feedback. While the overall standards were maintained, aside from a few collaborative projects, there were no shows or products that sparked significant discussions.

Meanwhile, although FENDI's annual revenue exceeded 2 billion euros, it was surpassed by CELINE within the same group. This somewhat awkward position for FENDI within the LVMH group indicates higher expectations from LVMH for the brand.

In 2025, FENDI will celebrate its 100th anniversary (in May this year, FENDI relaunched its perfume line after nearly 10 years, as part of the brand's centenary celebrations), and it is expected that a new artistic director for women's clothing will be appointed. FENDI will embark on a new journey while celebrating its centenary.

Looking ahead, the next year may be very eventful for LVMH. Prior to FENDI, GIVENCHY and CELINE have already appointed new creative directors. There are also reports that DIOR will end its collaboration with Maria Grazia Chiuri in early next year, with Jonathan Anderson set to succeed her.

With this in mind, LOEWE, which recently reported a 30% increase in revenue for the 2023 fiscal year (surpassing 811 million euros) and a net profit growth of over 60% (specifically 62.5%, 210 million euros), will also need to find a new creative director. This could set off a chain reaction in the industry.


在无功无过的 4 年之后,Kim Jones 正式确认从 FENDI 离职 | 理想生活实验室
#在无功无过的 #年之后Kim #Jones #正式确认从 #FENDI #离职 #理想生活实验室

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