新湖畔网 (随信APP) | 在行业景气低迷的情况下,2025春夏时装周展示了流行趋势。

新湖畔网 (随信APP) | 在行业景气低迷的情况下,2025春夏时装周展示了流行趋势。
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随着10月2日巴黎时装周落幕,为期一个月的2025春夏四大时装周也画上了句号。从各集团发布的2024上半年财报,到巴克莱银行等机构发布的报告,都反映出当下奢侈品市场疲软的状况。刚结束的2025春夏时装周也从侧面再次佐证了这一点。多数品牌都选择呆在舒适区,重复着各自擅长的路数,整季看下来,并没有太多让人眼前一亮或者感到兴奋的表演。

同时相比过去两季都有多位设计师的首秀或告别演出引发了不少热议,在本季这一类的话题也平淡了许多。最受关注的应该是Alessandro Michele入主Valentino后的T台首秀,设计师以强烈的个人风格对品牌风格进行了彻底颠覆,虽然也引用了档案库中品牌创始人的作品,但整场秀的氛围还是以Alessandro Michele自己的美学语言为主导。但换句话说,这又很像他之前在GUCCI的作品,缺少了去到新品牌后制造的新的化学反应,这多少让人有些遗憾。

这样的大背景下,2025春夏T台带来了堪称混乱的一季,当中体现出的流行趋势里也能看到各种流行元素并行,以及保守和矛盾共存。

经典单品唱主角:权力套装、设计感衬衫
中性的西装和衬衫在2025春夏时装周T台上占有显著的比例。继2024秋冬男装秀复刻品牌创始人经典造型后,SAINT LAURENT在这一季的女装秀中也重复了相同的玩法,双排扣西装搭配黑框眼镜,模特们变身圣罗兰本人。类似的带有怀旧风格的、源自男士衣橱的西装外套也出现在包括Bottega Veneta在内的更多品牌的秀场上,版型宽松偏长,搭配中性素色衬衫和过膝裙,不追求一丝不苟,主打随性自在。除了复古怀旧,秀场上也带来了更多可供参考的西装搭配思路,比如Ralph Lauren的“老钱风”和DIOR的运动风,而BALMAIN则提供了宝塔肩搭配特殊剪裁的高调选择。原本更偏商务场景的中性风衬衫也被重新演绎,借由剪裁、细节和搭配上的变化,赋予了通勤衬衫不一样的感觉。

前几季热点的延续:叠穿、皱巴巴的面料
过去几季的多个流行热点在2025春夏还有下文,比如Miu Miu这一季继续带来“乱穿衣”式的叠穿,源于小女孩衣橱的白色棉质连衣裙和衬衫、极简的针织衫、运动风外套等分属不同年龄段、不同风格、不同使用场景的单品以凌乱的方式叠加在了一起。Miu Miu这种叠穿思路的确难以驾驭,不过秀场上也有更成熟的叠加造型方案,比如通过半透明的薄纱面料来叠出层次感。皱巴巴的面料也继续在2025春夏的秀场上传播开来,本季代表性的品牌是Bottega Veneta,Matthieu Blazy这一季的创作从儿童视角出发,其中一组的设计手法诠释了爸爸妈妈藏在箱子里压得皱巴巴的西装、衬衫、连衣裙。相比Bottega Veneta这组设计可谓皱得相当彻底,还有一些折中的方案比如MICHAEL KORS、Victoria Beckham、FERRAGAMO等品牌的设计,纯色中性经典款搭配一定程度的褶皱,它们会显得更日常一些。

矛盾的流行元素并行:奶油色和大红色、薄纱和皮革
流行趋势也在这一季的T台上呈现出两级分化的态势。色彩的部分,淡雅清新的奶油色是本季比较有存在感的一股力量,而在本季整体较素的色盘中,又不时会“炸”出类似大红色这样饱和度极高的鲜艳色彩。面料也有类似的矛盾,首先一股趋势是飘逸的轻纱,Burberry、Louis Vuitton等许多品牌都给到了薄纱长裙的设计,轻透的薄纱以不同的形态飘荡在2025春夏的T台上。与薄纱形成反差的是硬朗的皮衣,这次既有像Coach等品牌带来的做旧风格机车夹克,也有Bally这样特殊剪裁的皮衣设计,以及Prada和Miu Miu秀场上还出现了充满复古未来感的皮衣。和薄纱一样,皮革也呈现出了千姿百态。

怀旧风行:复古花纹
怀旧的情绪也弥漫在本季时装周中,SAINT LAURENT回溯了创始人的经典造型,Bottega Veneta从儿童的视角探索了爸妈的衣橱,Prada致敬了太空时代……虽然出发点各不相同,但设计师不约而同地选择将时光的转盘倒拨,从记忆中去寻找灵感。复古花纹也是许多设计师在怀旧时共同选择的表达媒介,Prada、Versace、Miu Miu等品牌的秀场上都大面积地出现了复古花卉及几何图案。同时LOEWE本季主打的薄纱连衣裙也都满印了复古的植物图案,古典裙撑、复古花纹与相对简约的剪裁以及运动鞋相遇,呈现了跨越时空的美。而说到复古花纹,ETRO当然是主力,以装饰极繁花卉图案的半身裙搭配偏运动的上衣,ETRO以和LOEWE不同的语言带来了跨时空设计的另一套方案。

秀场外的话题更受关注
相比T台上呈现的内容,秀场外有关人员流动的话题甚至更受关注,时装周前后多家品牌进行了创意总监的人事变动,其中有Haider Ackermann出任TOM FORD创意总监,Sarah Burton加入GIVENCHY,还有Hedi Slimane最终离开了CELINE,接棒的是Michael Rider。同时时装周期间还有更多传言,这涉及到了多家主流时装屋以及多位明星设计师,其中Jonathan Anderson或将加入DIOR负责女装,Glenn Martens或从Diesel转到Maison Margiela……如果这些成真,话题可就有了。加上CHANEL创意总监人选(Hedi Slimane还是Simon Porte Jacquemus)、John Galliano的下家(或是FENDI)等等,未来数月,所有这些传言可能都会有结果。人员流动势必将带来更多的新鲜感,在相对无聊的一季之后,接下来的2025秋冬时装周应该会出现一波强势的反弹。

英文版:

As Paris Fashion Week came to a close on October 2, the one-month-long 2025 Spring/Summer fashion weeks also concluded.

From the financial reports for the first half of 2024 released by various groups to reports from institutions like Barclays Bank, it is evident that the luxury goods market is currently soft. The just-ended 2025 Spring/Summer fashion week once again confirmed this. Most brands chose to stay in their comfort zone, repeating their own strengths. After watching the entire season, there were not many performances that were eye-catching or exciting.

Compared to the past two seasons where the debuts or farewell shows of many designers sparked discussions, this season's topics were much less intense.

The most attention-grabbing should be the T-stage debut of Alessandro Michele at Valentino, after taking over as creative director. The designer completely transformed the brand's style with his strong personal style. Although he also referenced the works of the brand's founders from the archives, the atmosphere of the entire show was still dominated by Alessandro Michele's own aesthetic language.

But in other words, it's very similar to his work at Gucci before. The lack of new chemical reactions after moving to a new brand is somewhat disappointing.

In this larger context, the 2025 Spring/Summer runway brought a chaotic season, reflecting various popular trends with contradictions and conservatism coexisting.

Classic Pieces Steal the Show: Power Suits, Statement Shirts

Neutral suits and shirts had a significant presence on the 2025 Spring/Summer runways. Following the brand's founder's classic style replicated in the 2024 Fall/Winter menswear show, SAINT LAURENT also repeated the same play in this season's women's show, with double-breasted suits paired with black-rimmed glasses, transforming models into Yves Saint Laurent himself.

Similar nostalgic, menswear-inspired suit jackets appeared on more brands' runways this season, including Bottega Veneta, with loose and long silhouettes, paired with neutral-colored shirts and knee-length skirts, aiming for a casual and effortless look.

In addition to nostalgic looks, the runways also showcased new suit pairing ideas, such as Ralph Lauren's "old money" style and DIOR's sporty vibe, while BALMAIN offered bold options with pagoda shoulders and unique cuts.

Neutral business scene shirts were also reinterpreted through changes in cut, details, and pairings, giving commuter shirts a different feel.

Continuation of Previous Popular Trends: Layering, Wrinkled Fabrics

Several popular trends from previous seasons continued in the 2025 Spring/Summer, such as Miu Miu bringing the "misfit dressing" style of layering, combining items from different age groups, styles, and scenes in a messy way.

Miu Miu's layering approach is indeed difficult to manage, but the runways also presented more mature layering styles, such as creating layers with semi-transparent chiffon fabrics.

Wrinkled fabrics continued to make waves on the 2025 Spring/Summer runways, with Bottega Veneta as the representative brand. Matthieu Blazy's creations this season, starting from a child's perspective, featured wrinkled suits, shirts, and dresses found crumpled in a box.

In contrast to Bottega Veneta's extreme wrinkled designs, there were some compromises like MICHAEL KORS, Victoria Beckham, FERRAGAMO, where classic neutral pieces were paired with a degree of wrinkles, making them more everyday wearable.

Contradictory Popular Elements Coexisting: Cream and Burgundy, Chiffon and Leather

Popular trends in this season's runway presented a bifurcated state. In terms of colors, the soft and fresh cream color was a prominent force this season, while amidst the overall subdued color palette, there were occasional bursts of highly saturated bright colors like burgundy.

Fabrics also displayed similar contradictions. Firstly, a trend was the flowing chiffon fabric, with many brands, including Burberry and Louis Vuitton, showcasing designs featuring chiffon maxi dresses, letting the lightweight fabric drape in various forms on the 2025 Spring/Summer runways.

In contrast to chiffon, leather made a strong statement, with brands like Coach offering vintage-style biker jackets, Bally presenting uniquely tailored leather designs, and Prada and Miu Miu displaying leather pieces with a retro-futuristic feel on the runways. Like chiffon, leather came in various forms.

Nostalgic Trend: Retro Patterns

Nostalgic emotions permeated this season's fashion week, with SAINT LAURENT revisiting the founder's classic styles, Bottega Veneta exploring parents' wardrobes from a child's perspective, Prada paying tribute to the space age... Although starting from different points, designers coincidentally chose to rewind the wheel of time to seek inspiration from memories.

Retro patterns were also a common expression medium for many designers in their nostalgic moments, with Prada, Versace, Miu Miu, and other brands featuring large areas of retro floral and geometric patterns on their runways.

LOEWE's chiffon maxi dresses this season were filled with vintage botanical prints, combining classic petticoats, retro patterns, simple cuts, and sneakers, showcasing timeless beauty.

When it comes to retro patterns, ETRO is certainly a major player, mixing decorative floral patterns with sporty tops, offering a different cross-temporal design language than LOEWE.

More Attention on Topics Outside the Runway

Compared to the content presented on the runway, topics related to personnel changes outside the runway are even more attention-grabbing. Before and after the fashion week, several brands made changes in creative directors, with Haider Ackermann appointed as TOM FORD's creative director, Sarah Burton joining GIVENCHY, and Hedi Slimane ultimately leaving CELINE, succeeded by Michael Rider.

During the fashion cycle, there were more rumors, involving mainstream fashion houses and celebrity designers. Jonathan Anderson might join DIOR for women's wear, Glenn Martens might move from Diesel to Maison Margiela... If these rumors come true, the discussions will escalate.

With the selection of CHANEL's creative director (Hedi Slimane or Simon Porte Jacquemus) and John Galliano's next destination (perhaps FENDI), among others, in the coming months, all these rumors may materialize.

Personnel changes will undoubtedly bring more freshness, and after a relatively dull season, the upcoming 2025 Fall/Winter fashion weeks should see a strong rebound.


行业疲软的大背景下,刚结束的 2025 春夏时装周体现出了这些流行趋势 | 理想生活实验室
#行业疲软的大背景下刚结束的 #春夏时装周体现出了这些流行趋势 #理想生活实验室

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